Brú na Bóinne

I will take you today to one of the most amazing places that I have ever visited. I am sure that if I simply told you that there is an opportunity to visit a place built by Neolithic people (so let's face it - people from stone age), you would immediately think "what could cavemen do that would be worth a one hour drive from Dublin? I'd rather stay in my pub and focus on my Guinness". Well, let me tell you that you would be wrong, all way long.

Brú na Bóinne is a UNESCO World Heritage site (and this alone should make you drink your Guinness faster!).

Boinne is the name of a river in Ireland. On its North bank, you will find three archaeological sites of Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth.

In the visitor center you can learn a lot about the life of the people who have built them. And yes, they were primitive by our standards.

They were hunters but they settled by Boinne because of fertile soils.

They lived in round shaped houses made of wood. Since wood is by far not a material that would survive centuries, most of our knowledge about those settlements is guessing.

But the presence of wood is critical for archaeologists because this allows them to use the dendrochronology or tree-ring dating. We all know that archaeologists use radiocarbon dating to estimate the age of their findings. But this method works on the assumption that the amount of carbon-14 in the atmosphere has always been the same. This is not the case, and, for certain periods, radiocarbon dates may be out by hundreds of years. This is where dendrochronology comes into play.

Certain species of tree (in Ireland mainly oak) put on a growth ring every year. The width of the ring varies depending on the climate, but all trees of the some species have the same growth pattern if they lived at the same time. By starring with living oaks and working backwards in time (examining wood from medieval structure, earlier archaeological sites, etc.) scientists can build a picture of the pattern of growth rings stretching back over seven thousand years.

And this is really vital because the sites of Brú na Bóinne are dated (radiocarbon and dendrochronology combined) to be built between 3300 and 2900 BC! So, are you ready for a trip in time? Let us cross the river then.

We will see today Newgrange, the largest of the three sites. It has 85 meters of diameter, a height of 15 meters and a passage of 19 meters that leads to the inside chamber. Quite impressive for simple cavemen.

Newgrange is a passage tomb. But generally speaking, this was no only a burial place (though they did house the bones of the ancestors). It was also a place of religious ceremonies and rituals, a place where ancestors were present and also important landmark, well visible on top of a hill. A place to impress and a place to feel proud.

The building of Newgrange took roughly three generations. Three generations of planning, arranging, organising and hard work. No cranes included. The greywacke (or grey-green sandstone) used to build Newgrange had to be transported over a pretty hilly landscape. Stones of up to two tons could be lifted by men with rope slings over shoulder posts. Heavier stones would have to be dragged on sledges of wooden rollers and pulled with ropes. It could take up to four days for 80 men to bring a four ton stone from three kilometres away.

If you have difficulties imagining the size of such a stone, compare one to a horse (though of course Europeans did not know horses over five thousand years ago).

People of Newgrange did not simply use stone as a building material. they also covered it in amazing ornaments. Many Ph.D. thesis were written about the meaning of these ornaments. But as I have been told, each of those theories is probably as good as yours. The best knows stone is in front of the entrance of the passage tomb.

But actually it is not the stone that is the most stupefying proof that Neolithic people were much smarter that you (and admittedly - me as well) though. Can you see this little window above the entrance? During the winter solstice, for six days, the morning sun enters the passage and enlightens the main chamber. Pure magic. Or actually pure science - Newgrange is offcially the oldest astronomically oriented building in the world. One thousand years older than the pyramids. 

I am sure that you are not surprised that it is not allowed to take pictures inside, but I really invite you to go and see the amazing skills of the Neolithic men. If you wish, you can also enrol to a lottery. Twenty lucky winners can visit Newgrange at dawn, during the winter solstice, and admire its magic themselves.

After leaving the inner chamber, we will take a walk around the tomb. A surprisingly circular tomb.

The largest stones create a foundation that is then topped by smaller stones and finally ground.

The large stones are often ornamented. Did I mentioned that the builders of Newgrange did not have any metal tools?

I hope that you did not miss your pint of Guinness toaday and that this trip in time was for you as eye opening as for me. For sure, Newgrange will be a place that I will never forget. I only hope to be able to see it one day from bird's eye view. Today, I will need to use a shortcut only.

Finding the right door

Over the last two weeks, I have shown you many famous monuments and buildings of Dublin. But if there is one place that you absolutely cannot miss while being here, it is a genuine Irish pub. Open till late, of course.

And in your Irish pub, you need to order an Irish beer. This can be the Guinness, who was borne in the city. And yes, this is the same Guinness as in the Guinness Book of Records. So you know what people are capable of doing after having a few pints. So maybe we will go for a Kilkenny instead.

Unfortunately, for centuries, the men from Dublin did not go for one Guinness or Kilkenny, not even for two. As a result, their way back home was long and bumpy. Making their wives upset. But what was really upsetting the wives was that at times the husband would accidentally land in somebody else's house "because all doors look the same after a few pints". So the wise women of Dublin made sure that their husbands could not use this excuse anymore. As a result, you can find in Dublin doors of all colours. Some are blue ...

... other yellow.

A neigbouring one would then be red.

Or maybe greenish.

What really matters is that those which are the closest are brightly different.

Of course, no wife can ensure that her husband would not wander around this door instead.

Especially if he would meet a friend on his way. Jolly Irish fellows are good friends.

 

Saint Patrick Cathedral

Every city has a major religious building. The same is for Dublin where Saint Patrick's Cathedral (in Irish: Ard-Eaglais Naomh Pádraig) is the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland.

With its 43-metre (141 ft) spire, St. Patrick's is the tallest church in Ireland and the largest as well. In 1192, John Comyn, first Anglo-Norman Archbishop of Dublin, elevated one of the four Dublin Celtic parish churches, this one dedicated to Saint Patrick, beside a holy well of the same name. This stone was found just below St. Patrick's Well.

Saint Patrick was a fifth-century Romano-British Christian missionary and bishop in Ireland. Known as the "Apostle of Ireland", he is the primary patron saint of Ireland. Here you can admire his monument.

Many historical events took place here. Legend says that Gerald Mór FitzGerald, 8th Earl of Kildare, cut a hole in a door of the cathedra and thrust his arm through it to shake hands in friendship, in an effort to call a truce in the Butler–FitzGerald dispute with James, Earl of Ormond in 1492. Here the expression "chancing your arm" (meaning to take a risk) originated. You can see the Door of Reconciliation in the cathedral.

Another important object in the cathedral is The Tree of Remembrance. This barren tree seeks to remember all those who have been affected by conflict, anywhere in the world.

There are also many other places reminding of all the brave people and horses who lost their lives in the wars all over the world.

But the cathedral commemorates also the ones who came to Ireland to seek a new home. In 1666, the Cathedral Chapter offered the Lady Chapel for the use of French-speaking Huguenots who had fled to Ireland, and after some repair and preparation works, it became known as L'Eglise Française de St Patrick. A lease was signed on 23 December 1665 and was renewed from time to time until the special services ceased in 1816, by which time the Huguenots had been fully assimilated into the city population.

Here is the Lady Chappel in its whole beauty.

And here you can admire the main nave.

Unusually, St Patrick's is not the seat of a bishop, as the Archbishop of Dublin has his seat in Christ Church Cathedral. Since 1870, the Church of Ireland has designated St Patrick's as the national cathedral for the whole of Ireland, drawing chapter members from each of the twelve dioceses of the Church of Ireland. You can find their flags over their seats.

The dean is the ordinary for the cathedral; this office has existed since 1219. The most famous office holder was Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver's Travels, who was Dean of the cathedral from 1713 to 1745.

His grave and epitaph can be seen in the cathedral, along with those of his friend Stella.

Stella's real name was Esther Johnson. Whether Swift and Stella were married has always been a subject of intense debate.

The question is important because wifes in Dublin are special sort. But let's discover it next week.

Dublin

I am so excited to take you today to yet another new country. It is widely known as the Green Island and as long as I have landed, I had no doubts why. It is indeed very green and close to the water.

Actually, in some parts they are maybe even overdoing it with the green.

I am sure by now you all have guessed that today we will visit Ireland. Or to be more precise, its capital city - Dublin. Since Dublin is a city with a long history, you will not be surprised that is has a castle.

Nowadays, the Dublin Castle is the sear of the Irish government. But it used to belong to a king of course. Though for centuries the title was held by the English kings who did not reside in Dublin but sent there their governonr instead. Maybe this is why the statue of the Justice is facing the castle rather than the nation gathered outside the main gate.

If I was an English king, I would not miss the opportunity to spend some time here. Even more, if I was a royal heir in shorts.

The gardens of the Dublin Castle hide one special place. In Garda Memorial Garden, completed in 2009, the names of all members of the Gardaí (Irish Police) killed in the line of duty are inscribed on a roll of honour.

The various sculptures are meant to remind the visitors that premature death tears families and society apart, leaving deep wounds.

Not far from the Dublin Castle, you will find the Irish parliament.

As we move on, we reach the Trinity College, founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I .

Ireland witnessed in its history many religious turmoils. For many years, Catholics could not pass that gate. But today we can enter inside, irrespective of your confession.

In the center of the College grounds you will find a bell tower called Campanile. Do not ask me why a university needs a bell tower, maybe to wake up students who snore too loudly during classes.

The Trinity College is considered the best university in Ireland. It is proud of its many famous graduates. One of them immortalised Dublin of his times in the famous book Ulysses. And Dublin pays back his honours to James Joyce by offering him a statue.

But Dubliners do not commemorate only people of distinguished talents. They have also made a monument for a common fishmonger called Molly Malone. You can easily see which part of the monument is the most appreciated one.

And if you do not know Molly, you need to turn the volume up.

As we move through the narrow streets ...

... we will reach the river Liffey. It is crossed by many bridges, some of which are for pedestrian traffic only.

On the other side of the river we need to take a look at the Spire of Dublin. If you have no clue what it represents and what is its connection to Dublin, you are likely to find many Dubliners of the same opinion. Though others say that the Eiffel Tower was hated for decades as well.

The Spire stands next to the main Post Office of Dublin (hello, my Postcrossing friends!).

I propose that we cross the river again. Those who wish can stay in one of the many pubs in the Temple Bar district.

Those who want to reconnect with the green side of the Green Island can join me into Stephen's Green, one of the city's many parks.

And next week, I will take you to one special place in Dublin, where Irish people celebrate the man who is painting the whole world green on one specific day of the year.